Supplier verification
How do I verify a Chinese supplier before wiring money?
Most of the verification work you can do yourself, from your desk, in an afternoon. Here is the exact routine — and the three checks where reading from another country runs out of road.
By Rich Bee ·June 17, 2026
At a glance
Most of the verification you can run yourself, from your desk, before any money moves — and a supplier who resists the basic checks is handing you your answer. You don't need to be in China or speak Chinese for the first checks. Three of them, though — reading the license against government data, cross-checking customs trade history, and standing on the actual floor — are where doing it from abroad runs out of road.
You can check yourself from abroad
- Get the business license (营业执照); confirm the name, address, and scope
- Pay only a corporate account whose name matches the license
- Check operating history — look for at least three years
- Do a live, unscripted video walk of the line, gate to floor
- Ask for two references in your market — and actually call them
Where the self-check hits a wall
- Reading the license against Chinese government registration data
- Cross-checking it against real customs trade history
- Confirming the address is a working factory, not an empty unit
The wire is the point of no return. Before that transfer clears, you have leverage, options, and a supplier who is on their best behaviour. After it clears — especially on a personal account — you have a chat window that may or may not get answered. So the whole game is front-loading your checks into the window before money moves.
Here is the part nobody tells first-time importers: you can do most of this yourself. You do not need to be in China, and you do not need to speak Chinese to run the first four checks. We've walked enough factory floors to know exactly where the self-service routine works — and where it quietly hits a wall. We'll be honest about both.
The pre-wire routine you can run from abroad
Run these in order. Each one is cheap, and each one knocks out a different category of bad supplier. If a supplier resists any of them, that resistance is your answer.
1. Get the business license and read what it actually says
Ask for a photo of their business license (营业执照). A real supplier sends it without drama. Then check three things on it: the registered company name matches the entity you'd be paying, the registered address is real, and the scope of business (经营范围) actually mentions manufacturing or trading the thing you're buying. A license that says "import-export trade" on a supplier swearing they own the factory is a flag, not a footnote.
The catch: the license is in Chinese, the registration number ties back to a government database (国家企业信用信息公示系统) most overseas buyers have never heard of, and "the address exists on a map" is not the same as "a factory stands on it." More on that wall below.
2. Corporate account, never personal
This is the single hardest line in the whole routine. Payment goes to a corporate bank account whose name matches the business license — full stop. The moment a supplier asks you to wire to a personal account, a Hong Kong shell with a mismatched name, Western Union, or crypto, you stop. Nine times out of ten the "shell factory" scam — professional website, Gold Supplier badge, responsive sales rep, then silence after the wire — turns on exactly this ask. Money sent to a personal account is, for practical purposes, gone. There is nobody to claw it back from.
3. Operating history — at least three years
A factory that has shipped for three years has a paper trail: a registration date, customs records, returning clients. A shell spun up six weeks ago has a beautiful website and nothing behind it. Check the registration date on the license against how long they claim to have been "a leading manufacturer since 2009." Under two years of real operation, paired with pricing that sits 40–50% under everyone else and a "this price expires tomorrow" push, is the classic shell signature.
4. Get on a live video walk — not a slide deck
Insist on a live, unscripted video call walking the production floor — not a folder of photos, not a pre-recorded tour. Ask them to walk to the front gate and show the company name on the building. Ask them to pan across the line that would run your order. Ask a technical question about your product and watch whether the person answering actually knows the process or has to mute and ask someone. "The factory is being renovated" is the oldest dodge in the book; treat it as a no.
To go deeper on telling a real manufacturer from a trading company reselling three factories under one logo, read is this a real factory or a trading company →.
5. Two Western-client references — and actually call them
Ask for two references from clients in your market, then follow up. Most buyers ask and never call. The references that matter are the ones who'll tell you what the supplier was like when something went wrong — a late batch, a quality dip, a dispute. A supplier who can't produce a single overseas reference after "ten years in export" is telling you something.
6. De-risk the first deal itself
Even after the checks pass, structure the first transaction so a bad outcome can't sink you:
- Place a small trial order first ($1,000–$3,000) before any volume commitment. It's the cheapest verification you'll ever buy.
- Use escrow for the first deal. Alibaba Trade Assurance or PayPal hold the money until you confirm — your risk on a first order drops sharply versus a raw wire.
- Never wire 100% upfront to a new supplier. Industry-standard terms are 30% deposit, 70% before shipment; push for 70% after your inspection passes, so the balance is leverage, not a leap of faith. 100% upfront is only ever reasonable on orders under about $3,000.
Where the self-check hits a wall
Run all six and you've filtered out most of the obvious frauds. We'd genuinely rather you do this than skip it. But there are three checks where doing it from another country runs out of road — and these three are exactly where the money usually gets lost.
Reading the license. Anyone can send a license photo. Knowing whether it's current, whether the registered capital and scope line up with the claims, and whether the entity has been flagged or has abnormal-operations marks against it means reading Chinese government registration data — not the PDF they hand you. A doctored or borrowed license passes a glance and fails a cross-check.
Cross-referencing registration against customs trade data. A license tells you a company exists. Customs records tell you whether it has actually exported your product category, to where, and in what volume. That's the difference between "registered as a manufacturer" and "has shipped 200 containers of exactly this to the US." You can't pull that from abroad with a Chrome translate plug-in.
Standing on the actual floor. A video walk can be staged — borrowed premises, a neighbour's line, a sample room dressed up as a factory. The only thing that fully closes the gap is someone physically on site, matching the building to the license, counting the lines, checking the address is a factory and not a residential unit or an empty office.
Where Rich Bee comes in — before a cent moves
This is the gap we close, and we're specific about how. Before you wire anything, we run the verification that the desk routine can't:
- An on-the-ground or live video factory audit — our founder or a partner goes to the address, not an outsourced stranger, and matches what's on the floor to what's on the license.
- A business-license and customs-data cross-check — we read the Chinese registration, confirm the entity is real and active, and pull trade history to see what they've genuinely shipped.
- For quality once you're committed, we'll scope and coordinate independent third-party inspection (vetted options such as SGS, QIMA, or V-Trust) — but you commission and pay the inspector directly. We have no in-house inspection team and we never mark that fee up.
One thing we are careful to be clear about: Rich Bee is the coordinator and on-the-ground team, not a guarantor. We don't hold your money, we don't take a cut from the factory, and there are no factory commissions on our side — we charge you a transparent service fee, so our only incentive is getting the verification right. See how we verify a supplier →
If you're sourcing for Amazon FBA specifically — where a bad supplier can torch a listing, not just an order — the calculus shifts further toward verifying before you commit. We get into that in do I need a sourcing agent for Amazon FBA →.
Start with a free check
Not ready for a full sourcing engagement? Hand us the supplier you're eyeing — name, Alibaba link, or the license they sent — and our advisor will run a first-pass check on the business license, pull what trade history we can, and flag the obvious risks. No form, no commitment, and we get back to you based on typical turnaround for a basic check. It costs you nothing, and it might save you a wire you'd never see again.
Common questions
The questions buyers ask before wiring
Is it safe to wire money to a Chinese supplier's personal account?
No. Legitimate suppliers are paid into a corporate bank account whose name matches their business license. A request to wire to a personal account, a name that doesn't match, Western Union, or crypto is the single strongest signal of a shell-factory scam. Money sent that way is effectively unrecoverable, because there is no registered company to pursue.
How do I check a Chinese company's business license from another country?
Ask for a photo of the license (营业执照) and confirm the registered company name, address, and business scope match what the supplier claims and the account you'd pay. The limit is that the license is in Chinese and ties back to government registration and customs databases most overseas buyers can't access, so a doctored or borrowed license can pass a visual glance. Cross-checking it against official registration and trade data is where outside help matters.
What's the safest way to pay for a first order from China?
Use escrow such as Alibaba Trade Assurance or PayPal for a first deal so the money is held until you confirm, and place a small trial order ($1,000–$3,000) before any volume. If you wire, never pay 100% upfront to a new supplier — push for 30% deposit and 70% after your inspection passes, so the balance stays as leverage.
How long should a supplier have been in business before I trust them?
Look for at least three years of real operating history, checked against the registration date on the license rather than the marketing copy. Under two years of operation, combined with pricing far below market and urgency to pay fast, is the classic shell-factory pattern. History gives a supplier a paper trail — customs records and returning clients — that a freshly spun-up shell can't fake.
Can a video call really confirm a factory is real?
A live, unscripted video walk is far better than photos — ask them to show the company name on the building and pan across the line that would run your order. But video can be staged with borrowed premises or a dressed-up sample room. The only check that fully closes the gap is someone physically on site matching the floor to the business license, which is what an on-the-ground audit provides.
Continue the series
Factory or trading company?
The license, address, and on-camera tells that reveal whether your supplier actually makes anything.
Do you need a sourcing agent?
When an agent wastes your money for FBA or DTC, when one earns its fee, and how to spot a bad one.
Bulk arrived different from the sample
What to do right now, how your unpaid balance becomes leverage, and how to stop it happening next time.
Free supplier check
Get a supplier checked before you wire a cent
Tell our advisor which supplier you're considering. We'll run a first-pass check on the business license, pull what trade history we can, and flag the obvious risks — no form, no commitment.